The dash warning light indicating you need to replace your oxygen sensor is merely a timed popup. It doesn't mean anything has happened functionally except that it has been x miles since the odometer-connected timer was reset.
To reset the meter, crawl under the Vanagon under the driver's seat and trace the speedometer cable to the point where it terminates into the little box mounted undernearth the floorboard. There, you'll find a reset button. I don't remember exactly, but I think you need a small object like a nail to accomplish the reset. But you'll hear a "clunk" when you succeed.
BTW, the most common problem I've found wtih O2 sensors is the wiring connector from the sensor (located in the exhaust pipe under the engine) to the engine's computer. Replacement after-market sensors don't come with a connector and must be spliced in. This splice can work itself loose.
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Bleeding Waterboxer Radiator (tricky, tricky)
This is really simple, but if you don't know the trick, you can burn up a waterboxer Vanagon engine. With the radiator so far removed from the engine, it's very important to jump through this hoop. Anytime you've introduced air into the coolant system (such as a new radiator hose or head work, etc.) don't run it for more than a minute or so without doing this.
Raise the right front of the Van. It must be the highest point. I run my Vanagon's right front tire up on an embankment, but I suppose you could just jack up this corner. Then remove the grill with the large plastic flat screws (turning 90 degrees counter-clockwise). With the enginge running, go to the upper corner of the radiator nearest the right front wheel, and loosen the bleeding bolt. As the engine warms, air, then water and air, then steady water, will exit this bleeding bolt. Don't retighten until you are getting steady water with no bubbles.
Raise the right front of the Van. It must be the highest point. I run my Vanagon's right front tire up on an embankment, but I suppose you could just jack up this corner. Then remove the grill with the large plastic flat screws (turning 90 degrees counter-clockwise). With the enginge running, go to the upper corner of the radiator nearest the right front wheel, and loosen the bleeding bolt. As the engine warms, air, then water and air, then steady water, will exit this bleeding bolt. Don't retighten until you are getting steady water with no bubbles.
Waterboxer head leaks
The number one fault with Vanagons from 1982 when they retrofitted the old air-cooled boxer with water-lined head jackets is corrosion in the heads, resulting in adverse chemical reactions and destructive oxidation along the head/block connection. In other words, water leaks.
Removing the head(s) to replace the head gasket(s) is not a terribly big deal, but anytime you are attempting to remove bolts from this aluminum engine, you run the risks of breaking a bolt. I once bought a beautiful Vanagon for a song that had only one problem: the owner broke off a head bolt deep in the block trying to remove the head.
With the heads removed, you probably want to go ahead and replace rings at least. The real challenge, in the absence of a whole tool chest full of VW special factory tools, is fashioning your own special tools to accomplish the removal and replacement. My biggest problem was in removing the piston pin to take out the piston. I found that the only access is through a hole for water circulation. I found that a large lag bolt (from the hardware store) with very coarse threads would just screw itself inside the piston pin and allow its extraction. I bought a couple of lag bolts and found the one that was just too large and would engage itself with a little force. It does bugger up the pin a bit, but it is the inside surface that doesn't contact anything.
Be sure to access my other post topic on bleeding the radiator when you re-assemble. I didn't do this properly the first time and blew a whole rebuild job.
Removing the head(s) to replace the head gasket(s) is not a terribly big deal, but anytime you are attempting to remove bolts from this aluminum engine, you run the risks of breaking a bolt. I once bought a beautiful Vanagon for a song that had only one problem: the owner broke off a head bolt deep in the block trying to remove the head.
With the heads removed, you probably want to go ahead and replace rings at least. The real challenge, in the absence of a whole tool chest full of VW special factory tools, is fashioning your own special tools to accomplish the removal and replacement. My biggest problem was in removing the piston pin to take out the piston. I found that the only access is through a hole for water circulation. I found that a large lag bolt (from the hardware store) with very coarse threads would just screw itself inside the piston pin and allow its extraction. I bought a couple of lag bolts and found the one that was just too large and would engage itself with a little force. It does bugger up the pin a bit, but it is the inside surface that doesn't contact anything.
Be sure to access my other post topic on bleeding the radiator when you re-assemble. I didn't do this properly the first time and blew a whole rebuild job.
Cargo door mechanism
Broken cargo door handles is one of the most common problems with Vanagons. The cause is a very preventable loose screw that is unfortunately hidden by the interior panel. This screw must be kept tight. I will post to this blog a digital photo of the exact location of the screw, but it is located at the upper right corner of the interior panel, on the back of the exterior door handle mechanism. On my non-GL Vanagon, I have a cardboard (non-upholstered) interior panel, and I've actually punched a hole in the panel to access the screw head.
I should probably put a drop of fixing compound on the threads to lessen the chance of the screw coming loose again.
You can feel the freeplay in the handle mechanism when you open the cargo door from the outside. As soon as you feel this sloppiness in the mechanism, TIGHTEN THIS SCREW. Otherwise, you'll be combing the junkyards for a replacement mechanisms or paying the exorbitant prices at the VW dealer (if they are still available).
I should probably put a drop of fixing compound on the threads to lessen the chance of the screw coming loose again.
You can feel the freeplay in the handle mechanism when you open the cargo door from the outside. As soon as you feel this sloppiness in the mechanism, TIGHTEN THIS SCREW. Otherwise, you'll be combing the junkyards for a replacement mechanisms or paying the exorbitant prices at the VW dealer (if they are still available).
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